TOP TIPS FOR LEARNING THE REAL ART OF MAKING AND PRESERVING JAMS OR MARMALADES.

(PART ONE)

The Secrets of Abruzzo

INTRODUCTION

       First of all, although not fundamental, for the sake of an honest information, it is necessary to distinguish between marmalades and jams because, here in Italy,  in our spoken language these two words are synonymous.

       Actually, they are two distinct articles, although obviously similar.

In 1982 the Italian law with the President Decree 8 June 1982, no. 401, has transposed the European Directive n. 79/693 of 1979 which defined the differences between the two products. In fact, the European community established that marmalade is a product made of sugar and citrus fruits (orange, mandarin, lemon, cedar, bergamot, grapefruit) in which the fruit percentage is at least 20%. Usable citrus fruit parts include pulp, puree, juice, watery extracts and peels.

       The jam was instead defined as a product containing sugar and pulp (or puree) of all other types of fruit. The fruit percentage can generally be less than 35% (with significant differences depending on the fruit used), but it rises to 45% in the case of "extra jam".

       There is also a third category called the compound, the discovery of which derives from the custom rather than the norms. In this case, the percentage of fruit must not be less than two thirds. In the compound, the quantity of added sugar is considerably lower.

       Any way our recipes will not make any kind of distinction on which is and which isn’t a proper jam because what you’ll find on “The Secrets of Abruzzo” are the recipes of our "grandmothers" and our traditions that carry their names handed down to us over time, and also because of the percentages provided by the official nomenclature are not always comparable.

The Secrets of Abruzzo

1.   STERILIZATION OF THE JARS

       Before preparing our jams it is necessary to sterilize the jars to ensure product preservation over time. This can be done in different steps.

        The first step, very easy and which takes just a little time, involves the use of glass jars suitable for preserving with matching unscrewing caps or the reuse of glass jars of previous preserves. In both cases, they will need to be sterilized together with the lids, even if they have been just purchased. It is also recommended to sterilize them when using them for the first time, so as not to frustrate the sterilization process leaving them in the open air. The first step is, therefore, to wash the jars carefully under running water and check that they do not have cracks or chips because they may break during the sterilization phase. For hermetically sealed jars, also wash the gasket well and set it aside to dry.

        The second step, is to put the jars in a big pot and cover them completely with water, possibly placing some kitchen cloth between the jars in order to protect and to keep them from slamming. Place the pot on the stove and bring to a boil, then lower the fire and leave the jars in the pot for another 20 minutes. Ten minutes before draining jars, dive the lids into the hot water too.        After the necessary time, turn off the fire and allow to cool. When the water is at room temperature, remove the jars out of the pot and let them drain well, turning them over, on a kitchen cloth. Alternatively, you can dry the jars by placing them in the oven at idle. This will speed up drying and kill any bacteria still present. When they are completely dry, you can use them for your marmalades or jams.

       The third step, is to fill the sterilized jars with the jam when still hot.  Slightly heat the jars in an oven for a few minutes in order to avoid thermal swings when pouring the hot jam in the glass jars risking to breakage them. Once the jam is cooked let it rest a few minutes but when still hot, using a ladle, fill the jars. Be sure to fill them up to one cm. from the edge.

       Once filled, seal the jars  tightly using twist off caps, that have a bulge in the center, and are recommended for jams (like the ones you see in the photos on the web pages  of our site "THE SECRETS OF ABRUZZO".

To close hermetically the jar, press the bulging disk in the center of the cap until you hear the "clack". Turn the jars upside down and let them cool completely, this will create the vacuum.

The Secrets of Abruzzo

       The fourth step, also considered a practical advice to end sterilization is to immerse the jars in a pot one last time, as previously described, with the same sterilization times used for the empty jars.

       After the jars are drained and well dry, test their vacuum seal by pressing with a finger the small bulb disc at the center of the twist off cap. While doing so the cap  must not produce any "clack clicks".

       Once cooled, put away the jam jars in a cool and dark place.

       If the hygiene conditions in the preparation are respected, if the jam is versed hot in the sterilized containers and if the jar closure is always made with sterilized caps, our product may be stored for several years.

2.   CITRUS FRUITS AND PROPER FRUIT PULPS

       The ideal fruits for the jams are the ones slightly under-ripe but have not yet developed rot or fermentation.

3.   PRECAUTIONS  DURING  COOKING, POTTING UP JAMS, MARMALADES, AND COMPOUNDS

       During the preparation of jams, marmalades and compounds, the formation of a darker colored foam on the surface of the boiling compound may appear. If you want a cleaner product, you can remove the foam as long as it continues to form and, in any case, until you obtain the color you want to reach. This procedure gives the jam a clear color.

       To see when the jam is cooked, as the mixture gets thickened, with the help of  a ceramic saucer or a small ceramic  plate that has been put for a few minutes before use in the freezer, drop a little teaspoon of the hot conserve onto the cold saucer.  Tilting the saucer vertically the compound is ready when it doesn’t slip away quickly, but moves slowly.

              If, with the process of the saucer, the jam doesn’t slip away, it may be too dense, so you can remedy adding some cold water little by little, or grape juice, or apple juice, until you reach the desired consistency.

       As you perform the saucer test it is best to remove the pot from the oven otherwise the jam will keep cooking.

       For further tips on how to prepare our jams, keep up with us following  "The SECRETS OF ABRUZZO" part II .

The Secrets of Abruzzo